Follow Lisa and Rob on their adventure to Kerala, India!

Lisa and Rob have decided to switch things up at 60 years of age and go out on a limb by travelling to Kerala, India for 6 months. Their journey to India will allow Lisa to extend her knowledge in Ayurvedic nutrition at the source and continue her yoga training and spiritual pursuits. Rob's lifelong passions outside of Health and Safety management are travelling to remote locations and cooking. This trip will allow him to study the culinary cuisine of Kerala. They have always had a dream to open a home stay in an exotic location. They're hoping this trip will pave the way to turning that dream into a reality.

Friday, 30 January 2015

House boats

This morning started early with my best friend's phone call from Unionville . She was driving home from work and decided to call. It was 3 am our time. Opps!  I had my alarm set for 4:45, so when we heard the buzz we thought it was time to get up. We were up and dressed before I looked at the time. 3:20!! We called her back and had a great chat. Then wrote a blog entry. At 5:00 am. We began our walk to docks. To our surprise, someone stopped and gave us a ride on his motorcycle saving us the additional 3kms we still had to go.
We met our new friends from Delhi at a houseboat . Off we went into the backwaters, in the dark. 


We saw the sun rise, lots of birds singing and fishermen pulling in their nets after a nights fishing.


 There was a temple across the water as we left playing loud music at 5:30 am. Their speaker systems rival that of a live rock concert at most outdoor venues.



On the other side of the rivers edge you can see the rice paddy's. Kuttanad area is called the Rice Bowl of Kerala because of the wealth of paddy crops located at the very heart of the backwaters. Bananas, cassava and yams are also grown. This is perhaps the only area in the world where farming is done 1.5 to 2 meters below sea level. Inland waterways which flow above land level are an amazing feature of this region.


The driver pointed out the government boats. This is when Lisa and I decided to utilize this form of transportation instead of the bus for our next leg of our journey toward the mountains to the east.



The waters were quiet this morning. There were not many houseboats out on the water yet.
Some of these houseboats have 3 bedrooms and serve 3 meals a day plus tea in the afternoon. We have to watch our budget so we couldn't indulge.
 Very luxurious! 



The driver stopped along the way to pick up his lunch from his wife. Their modest home just behind.





Alappuzha

The day after the wedding we watched the Republic Day parade on TV in our hotel room with Vimal. 
President Modi and President Obama were extremely gracious to each other seeming to be like minded. This nation of India surely knows how to put on pomp and pageantry like no one else, maybe one of the reasons the British were able to rule here for so long as they are pretty good at this as well. 
We then took a bus for 5 hours north to Allepepy the main area for Backwater tourist travel. Kerala is a constant continuation of towns, with minimal distances between each other. Always hearing horns honking constantly with such an array of vehicles, even the odd elephant making it's way along the somewhat narrow highways. It was really bumpy for us as we sat in the back of the bus. Big mistake, not to be repeated if possible. Many of the roads are in dire need of repair. See the ambulance Hilary.

Vimal called ahead and someone met us at the bus stand to take us to our cottage.


Basic accommodation and really nice guys running it, costing $19 a night.


We went out for dinner and met some really nice people on the street. Nakul and his Mom Neeta who joined us for dinner.
They are from a city north of Delhi, in the foothills of the Himalayas. Such wonderful people, so generous with their passion in helping us understand the great differences between states and regions within India.

The next day was a state wide strike and no one was working from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm.
They were striking at the request of the opposition party in power over issues of corruption. 
We bought some fruit and water before going back to our room so we would be prepared.

The next day we couldn't even get a tuk tuk. 
Luckily the guys made us breakfast and helped to arrange alternative travel arrangements.
We managed to get some boys to drive us on the back their motorcycles,  for a nominal fee, to the Allepepy   beach resort where Neeta and Nakul were staying.


We spent a wonderful day at their resort right on the beach. We went swimming and Nukul went in the waves for the first time with Rob. 

We had a great lunch and when the strike was over we got a tuk tuk back to town and all the shops were open again. Can you imagine that happening in Toronto ? 


Sunset swim


No one was on this gorgeous beach. You could see for miles


As you can see Rob is getting a little Budda belly.  He loves the food so much!




The wedding feast

There was about 259 people to feed and they had to go in shifts. We waited outside under the trees until most people had eaten. We were then escorted in through the kitchen, by Ajith, our new friend.

Huge vats of food were prepared at the hall and served on Banana leaf.


This is Vimal making sure everyone is happy and fed. These pails were taken around and served to each person. The food was phenomenal! 



When all the guest had eaten the bride changed and left with her groom to go back to his family home.
Lots of tears ensued.

Saying goodbye

This was truly a wonderful experience 




The wedding started when the groom arrived with his family and friends from a city an hour way


Brides family and friends are gathering here first.


Welcoming the groom and family with flowers and offerings.


Once the ceremony began and the groom was seated the procession came in and walked 
around the platform where he was seated three times. The bride kissed her mother and father and then sat beside her groom.


The strangest thing was that the stage was blocked and it was hard to see for all the photographers.
Very serious too. I didn't see any smiles until the ceremony was finished.



The whole thing was so beautiful and I was honoured to be there. We wre invited up to the 
stage to see better and official pictures were taken of us with the bride and groom. 









Alappuzha to Kottyam

After our boat ride we inquired at the government docks as to the cost for the next leg of our interior journey. The price, R18 ($.30 cents) for the 4 hour transport. Boat, bus and rail government transportation in India is very cheap. This nation has more rail line than anywhere in the world. 
The next boat was leaving at 9:30. This gave enough time so we had breakfast at The Indian coffee house for R95. Temples, churches and mosques are everywhere with 20% Christian, 20% Muslim and 60% Hindu, here in Kerala. From the elaborate to the very simple, Hindu temples are everywhere as indicated below.




We got a tuk tuk,  checked out of our cottage, grabbed our bags  and made it back to the pier 
in plenty of time.


 We then traveled to Kottayam by boat instead of taking a bus. It was almost 10 am and we had stopped at docks to pick up people about 20 times. Crossing from side to side along the backwater Ha ha it's going to be a long ride, but no honking and very serene. It took 4 hours.


Images along the way. In the middle of rural India with rice fields all around. This church in 
middle of nowhere.





We were bombarded by drivers as we stepped off the boat in Kottayam, who wanted R300 to take us to the bus station. I offered R20. I walked around the corner to the visitors centre and got a map and the fair price for a tuk tuk was R 30. You must be aware at all times to negotiate. We hailed a tuk tuk at the top of the hill and had a crazy ride to the bus stand. 

Indian wedding Arun and Anjali

We had the fortune to be invited to an Indain Wedding last Sunday. 
We were invited the night before to meet the family and some close friends. It is the custom to receive the guests and feed them. The outside was set up for the festivities. Rob helped to set up and serve some food.

Vimal and Rob met at the Padmanabhapuram Palace a few days before. This was is wife Aswathy's sister's wedding. 
The next morning we arrived at 8:00 am. Rob was whisked away to help with the set up of the hall.
Banana trees had to erected at the entrance.



Meanwhile the sisters and I went to the Cinderella Beaty parlour 


I was enthralled by the hair, makeup and jewellery application . The beautiful nervous bride, 
Anjali.



Jasmine flowers for the hair.



It took more than 3 hours to get ready.




Thekkady forest/ Kumily, Western Ghats, Kerala



This elephant camp is just next door to Koshys bed and breakfast where we are fortunate enough to be staying.  Most of the tourist here are from other parts of India realizing that this area offers so much beauty and Eco tourism. The nights are cool at 16 c and the days are always the same temperate at 32 c. all year round. One can ride the elephants for 1/2 an hour for $5.00. 


As mentioned in our Facebook video, we are greeted every morning by this proud chap below.


This bamboo grove minutes from our bed and breakfast is where the monkeys hang out, 
traversing the bamboo trees, always putting on a show. The other day as I walked by, one 
member of the gang decided he liked my glasses perched on my head and made his best 
attempt to grab them. I still have them though. 


This region is so diverse, we could easily spend a month here with so much to see and do.


Lisa was watching Ramani our gracious hostess make samosas while talking to her 
daughter on the phone who resides in Chicago.


Such a variety of flowers here, so beautiful and delicate.


Koshys accommodations have everything a tourist loves. Good beds, awesome food, clean and spacious, wifi, television, regional information, and plenty of love and kindness. 
Zachary knows all the best spots and people as he was a pastor here for 8 years. 
We are up on the second floor. There are three bedrooms, living room, dining room and kitchen nook.
The two of us are quite spoiled as we are currently the only visitors staying here. In fact we have decided to stay a few extra nights. The wildlife reserve is next on our list which is home to over 1000 wild elephants, 45 tigers and many more exotic species. The reserve is  adjacent to Periyar lake at an approx altitude of 3000 ft.

The front entrance host these beautiful flowers which we've never seen before. 
Aren't these cool Dad?


Upstairs accommodations


Zachary's friend, the father of the king of the local tribe constructed this authentic hut so 
one may find relief from the suns rays. The vista from the roof is spectacular.