On our way to Sikkim.

We decided to travel northeast to visit this ideally situated, relatively obscure Indian state, nestled between Bhutan to the east, Tibet to the north, and  Nepal to the west.

Legship is a small town in the west district of Sikkim and is the gateway to Sikkim. It is located on the main road connecting West Sikkim with the rest of the state, on the banks of river Rangit. We can feel the uniqueness of this state as we venture deeper into this special secluded region of India. Sikkim is divided into four districts, North, South, East and West. To visit North Sikkim, one requires an addition travel permit due to the sensitive nature of the bordering country's politics. Along with the travel permit necessary to obtain, it is advised by the state that local travel agents should be used to arrange for accommodations and guides to assist in your trekking, sightseeing adventures. As it turned out, costs were prohibitive for Lisa and I so we focused on the remaining three districts. 

The least populated state in India (620,000), Sikkim is the only totally organic state in the subcontinent. No plastic bags are used, green and blue garbage containers are utilized allowing for the separation of waste. Garbage is in our opinion the greatest scourge of India and it may be in this case that the way to deal with it will start from the top down, at least geographically. Just have to convince the other 28 states along with their one billion, two hundred million countrymen and women. 

Above is a view from our first destination, Pelling, where we spent a couple of days. The food here is fantastic, Momo's (stuffed dumplings), wonderful soups full of spiced vegetables and a delicious broth. We're at about 6000 feet.

Thick dense coniferous forests cover all the mountain sides similar to what we have in many of the mountain slopes in British Columbia. There is a quiet tranquility about this region and off in the distance one can capture the awe inspiring views of the towering Himalayas which we have been pursuit of since travelling north.

 

Kangchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world reveals itself to us. What a delight!

 About a year ago when Lisa and I considered this adventure together we determined that there were two specific locations we wished to visit on the subcontinent. The first being Kerala in the south of India and Bhutan in the northeast. So it wasn't long before we decided to leave this cool town of Pelling and proceed eastward toward Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, very close to the border of Bhutan.

A little more about Darjeeling!

Clouds and mist at this time of year in Darjeeling. Best time of the year to be in the Himalayas is from mid September to mid December for clear blue skies. 

As it turns out there is a permit required to visit Sikkim, so we found ourselves exploring further this fascinating Tibetan, (Buddhist),Nepali, (Hindu) influenced mountain city. Endless lane ways weaving their way up and down, traversing this whole valley which must be 25 km by 10km. No Auto rickshaws (Tuk Tuks) here as there also are very few buses do to the severe angle of the roads and lane ways. 

Darjeeling, West Bengal

We are in Darjeeling which lies in the northern part of West Bengal and neighbours Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal and Bangladesh , lying at an altitude of 2200 meters or 7200 feet. Views of the 3rd highest mountain in the world, Kanchenjunga, at 8600 meters or 28,200 feet, can be seen when the weather gods permit.  

Pretty much everything needs to be carried up the many winding and sometimes steep lane ways.

A strap for your forehead attached to some rope is all that is required to lug anything.

After several days waiting for the clouds to dissipate, we have decided to go north into Sikkim in pursuit of the awe inspiring Himalayan mountain vistas we know are there.

Hoping to share these with soon.

Sarnath

Sarnath is one of the four most important Buddhist pilgrimage centres of India. Buddha, attaining enlightenment (Buddha-hood) at Bodh Gaya came to Sarnath and delivered his first sermon to five disciples named Kaundinya, Bashpa, Bhadrika, Mahanaman and Ashvajit for redeeming humanity. It is this place where the foundation of a new order of monks (Sangha) and a new order of religious doctrine (Dhamma) was laid.

    

   Archaeological museum Sarnath is the oldest site museum of Archaeological Survey of India. In order  to keep the antiquities found from the site, a decision was taken in 1904 by the Government to construct a site museum adjacent to the excavated site at Sarnath. It was due to initiative of Sir John Marshall., the then Director General of Archaeology in India, that this museum was created. 

The sculpture work on the stone still shows the intricate designs 

    

   Dhamekh Stupa, according to an inscription dated 1026 A.D. states it's old name was Dharma Chakra Stupa. It commemorates the spot where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon.

Locally known as the Dhamekh tower, this stupa is situated a little to the north-east of the modern Jain temple. It consists of a stone basement, 93 feet in diameter and solidly built, the stones being clamped together with iron, to the height of 43 feet. This structural technic is evident all across India, used to secure walls or steps. Above that it is in brickwork rising to a height of 104 feet above the terrace of the temple, and 143 feet when including its foundation. 

   Jain Temple

   

   Poppies and daisies in the foreground, my favourite flowers. 

Varanasi

The next leg of our travels requires a train ride north 1500 kms through the heart of India to Varanasi, the holiest city in India on the Ganges, or Ganga River in eastern Uddar Pradesh, a northern India state with over 100 million people just a couple hundred kms south of the Himalayan foothills. 

We were unable to arrange an A/C Sleeper Car and as a consequence we buddied up with a dozen extra passengers over the allotted seats and beds in our 2nd class sleeper railcar. This mode of transportation here is less than half the cost of A/C 2 tier rail travel. Our 34 hour trip cost us $12 dollars each. We don't think will do that again even with the savings, thank you very much. We awoke in our mid and upper berth to see bodies spread out on the floor everywhere, so make sure you book ahead at least three days before departure when travelling over here.

 

Varanasi is a couple of hundred kms south of the Himalyas and upon arrival we immediately feel the energy and essence of Lord Shiva's influence. There also exists a ultra congested, energetic, chaotic, dynamic quality to this holy town, which happens to be the oldest in the world. We have arrived at the beginning of holi week celebrations which culminates on Friday March 6th in a crazed display where all citizens meet on the streets and throw vibrant colourful mixtures of paint dyes on one another celebrating the onset of spring. Our understanding is that the whole city including the Ghat is awash with colour and stays until the summer rains occur. This is a time for being with family and friends and to express love, joy and friendship.

This is one of the most important Hindu celebration occurring across the nation. No booze but lots of bhong, a marijuana based paste consumed in various forms.

One fellow approached Lisa and I the first evening and asked if we had been to the government shop. Off we went across the insanely crowded street dodging brahma bulls, cows, rickshaws of all power sources, trucks, cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, goats, dogs and cats only to encounter this old fellow sitting cross legged behind a knee wall glass shelf harbouring little round chocolate balls of various sizes. I said "chocolate and he added "with marihuana or opium". Should be crazy on Friday.

Lisa prebooked our accommodations here in Varanasi, and she's especially good at this. Located perfectly, this awesome private residence offers eleven comfortable rooms with 18" high ceiling, all newly refurbished. The Shree Ganesha Palace Hotel is family run, they are living on the second floor of this Mansion. Most of the bedrooms open onto a marbled courtyard engulfed with flora and fauna. All of the rooms have marbled floors and are spic and span.

This beautiful Homestay is in the heart of this chaotic, vibrant, passionate, spiritual old city yet offers sanctuary just of the road, a place to help you digest what you just experienced on your walk about.

 

As soon as we checked in we were directed to run down to the Ganges to witness the Ganga Aarti celebration. This occurs 365 days a year. 

Twelve Brahmins participate together in a prayer to the gods to continue the flow of water from the Himaylas into the Ganges. In October of each year a total of 51 Brahmins will collectively perform the prayer ritual during Dev Diwali festival.

Here is a sample of the coloured powder being sold everywhere which will be added to water and thrown Friday morning till 12pm.  After 6 pm dry coloured powder will be thrown. Should be crazy as the powders are so vibrant.

T

We will let you know how it's all turns out, but first we are on our way to Sarnath, 20 kms away to see where Buddha began his teachings some 2500 years ago and where Buddhist nations in the world have built Temples dedicated to Buddhist teachings.

Onwards to Hyderabad, mid central India.

We were remiss in not taking and posting more pictures of the various barnyards (concrete enclaves) within Mysore and probably most larger Indian cities, where cows are milked and are kept in through the night. Come morning they are out and about scavenging for whatever vegetation they can come across in the streets and alleyways. These two were taken out of our window in Mysore.

We boarded a "sleeper bus" on a overnight journey to Hyderabad, a city with 10 million people that surrounds a lake, where there is a towering statue of Budda in the middle. A busy beehive of activity that I'm sure has every conceivable business and service offered which exists. 

Lisa and I stayed in a nicely designed newer hotel chain called Mango in Secunderabad, a borough of Hyderabad for $28.00 a night. Clean and spacious with an unusually comfortable bed. We found a great cooking stall that prepared excellent South Indian cuisine for about $2 bucks a meal. On that Friday we were picked up by a driver and car by some friends we made at the Ayurvadic Hospital, The Health Village, in Kerala in December.

Here we are with Sonika, we met in December and have kept in touch. This is her uncle and aunt.

We spent the afternoon and evening there and enjoyed a vegetarian meal with them. 

Heading north!

Our desire is to be in the Himalayas by March 7th just as the central part of the continent begins to heat up. We've decided to visit several places along the way, beginning with the oldest hill station established by the Brit's known as Ooty, in the eastern Ghats in Tamilnadu, Kerala's southernly neighbour state.

   This one is for my daughter Hilary and Steve, Paramedics in Toronto.

Once again we are amazed at the diversity in geography we witness en route to Ooty via Coimbatore, a city which is a junction point, in the Ghats (mountains). The coastal areas of Kerala are stuffed with coconut, palm and banana trees. As you head inland the vegetation alters as more deciduous trees enter the mix. Agriculture is abound, with many small farms growing a wide array of fruits and vegetables. Rubber trees and many hard wood trees are harvested. 

This park is like Edwards Gardens in Don Mills except with monkeys instead of squirrels.

The buses we are travelling on are local buses with no glass windows, which required us to wear sunglasses as dust shields. Revenues must be low as these buses operate with minimum amount of maintenance conducted, but you can travel for 5 hours for half a buck.

It's all worth while as you begin the switchback accent to 7500', the elevation at which Ooty exists. Once again we witness the spender of Cardomom, tea and coffee plantations, manicured as they are.

Ooty or Udhagamandalam, is exceptional for tourists, with so much to see and do. We found it difficult to breath when excerting ourselves so we layed low. Rob had the more difficult time as there was no chance to acclimatize. The nights here in the southern part of India was quite cool at 12C in the night, can you believe this?

After a couple of days we ventured back into Kerala, northwest to Wayanard. This region is densely forested with bird and animal reserves along with tea, cardomom and coffee plantations. We decided to attempt to negotiate a severely reduced rate at a Best Western Plus by laying a sob story on them explaining our backs were sore and we needed great beds and lots of hot water to shower in at the mid point of our 6 month journey. They bought into it so we chilled for a few days. Great view and pool all to ourselves. The chef was also amazing and prepared us a special meal for dinner.

After a few days of rest and relaxation, we boarded a bus to Mysore to see the Palaces and that we did!  Mysore in Karnataka state north of Kerala is known as the city of Palaces. The kings Mysore Palace is second only to Agra's Taj Mahal as the second most visited sight in India. 

A new King was being adopted in order to take the throne . The previous ruler had no children, so had to adopt a relatives' grandson to ensure the continuation of the ruling families bloodline. We were there when he was being adopted. His coronation will be at the end of April after he finishes his exams in the USA.

  

This was one of the many temples in the Palace grounds. We were permitted into this one.